In 1985 Kevin Calder and I had briefly visited the Gorge. We climbed a fortyfoot crack, looked around, and decided that it wasn’t a very good place for climbing. The rock seemed too steep, too loose, and devoid of clean cracks. During the summer of 1989, I heard that people were putting up routes in the Gorge. I was skeptical; I thought I knew what was down there.
Soon after, Gary Slate talked me into returning. After a twenty-minute scramble, we came upon a vertical arete with a slight bulge at the top. Anguish came over me, but Gary assured me the arete was only 5.9+. And the route was sprinkled with shiny new 3/8” bolts. Having completed “Gorgeous” with quite a pump, I immediately became obsessed with the positive-hold, endurance climbing that makes up the Owens River Gorge.
In the fall of 1989, Mike Strassman and Scott Ayers put together a “Rock & Ice Guide” to the 120 routes in the Gorge. New routes were being completed at a furious pace; so almost as soon as the guide came out, it was in need of an update. I decided to put my computer to use, compiling a list of the routes for friends and local climbers. From that point on, the whole project snowballed. After hundreds of hours, tons of feedback, and personally field testing over six hundred routes, you now have it: the “Owens River Gorge Climbs” guidebook.
It has been absolutely amazing to see the fifteen-year transition of the Gorge: from a rarely visited, bone dry, semi-industrial area-—to the return of the river, a riparian environment and people; from bushwacking to buffed-out trails; from a small obscure climbing area to a world-class sport climbing area. I’m damn proud of what we’ve done to this place.
Over the years I’ve climbed at quite a few of the best crags around the West. So I know it’s easy to come up with negatives when comparing the Owens River Gorge. But, even after logging more than a thousand days in that ditch—when I just want to have a good time cragging with good company—the Gorge is simply my favorite place.
I would like to thank all the people who have invested so much time, sweat, and money, making the Owens River Gorge a climbers’ paradise. I would also like to thank Mono County District Attorneys George Booth and Stan Eller along with the L.A.D.W.P. for their diligent efforts in returning water to the Gorge. And I’d like to thank the Access Fund, Dean Rosnau, James Wilson, Tony Puppo and the L.A.D.W.P. for their efforts establishing the toilets.

~Marty Lewis, Author of Owens River Gorge Climbs (Available at Wilson's Eastside Sports)

Marty Lewis on the 1st pitch of the Towering Inferno 11a***** Kevin Calder Photo

Where is the Owens River Gorge?

The Owens River Gorge is located in East-Central California, just east of Yosemite National Park, situated between the towns of Bishop and Mammoth Lakes off of U.S. Hwy. 395.

The Owens River Gorge Photo: Kevin Calder

Driving Time (in hours):

Los Angeles 5
Yosemite Valley 3*
Tuolumne Meadows 1.5*
Reno 3.5
Salt Lake City 8
Joshua Tree 6
Las Vegas 5
Sacramento 5.5
Smith Rock 10

*Tioga Pass (Hwy. 120) is usually closed from November through May. This makes Yosemite Valley an epic 8-hour drive. Tuolumne Meadows becomes accessible only by ski touring.

Driving times are estimated with "good" conditions.

Climate:

The Owens River Gorge is located in the Great Basin Desert at an elevation of 5,500 ft. This climate is generally dry. Temperatures can vary drastically. Spring and fall are the best times to climb in the Gorge, with pleasant days (50°F to 80°F) and cool nights. Summer temperatures are usually in the high 80°F’s to low 100°F’s, so the climbing is limited to shady walls in the early morning or late afternoon. By 4 p.m. the entire Gorge goes into the shade, and a light breeze usually picks up, making conditions excellent until dark. Winter is cold to mild, with minimal sun penetration. Highs are usually in the 40°F’s to 50°F’s, and lows are in the twenties. During high pressure periods climbing in the sun can be glorious. About half the winters can have one or two major snow events that can produce up to two feet of snow in and around the Gorge. Situated in the rain shadow of the Sierra Nevada, the Owens River Gorge has a dry, benign climate.

The volcanic rock is usually vertical to gently overhanging with lots of holds that are smooth yet positive. Rounded edges, crimps, pockets and plates are the norm. Climbs will be found on every kind of feature imaginable. Routes are concentrated along an easily-traveled gorge. First ascensionists have a liberal attitude about placing bolts and anchors. A solid selection of routes are found in the grades ranging from 5.7 to 5.13b. These factors contribute to make the Owens River Gorge a sport climbing paradise. On top of all this there is a smattering of mixed climbs, gear climbs and aid climbs; so you can fiddle with gear ‘til the cows come home. In other words, stacks of diverse routes should keep you climbing to your heart’s content.

Power plants at the employee housing in the 1930's. Photo courtesy of Community Printing

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